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View more Daily Telegraph Videos and Breaking News and Featured Entertainment Videos online at Daily Telegraph. DIY solar air heating collectors are one of the better solar projects. They are easy to build, cheap to build, and offer a very quick payback on the cost of the materials to build them. They also offer a huge saving over equivalent commercially made collectors. Two of the more popular designs are the pop can collector and screen absorber collector. The pop can collector uses columns of ordinary aluminum soda pop cans with the ends cut out. The sun shines on the black painted pop cans heating them, and air flowing through the inside of the can columns picks up the heat and delivers it to the room. The screen collector uses 2 or 3 layers of ordinary black window insect screen as the absorber. The sun shines on the screen and heats it, and the air flowing through the screen picks up the heat and delivers it to the room. The two collectors were built specifically for this side by side test and are identical in size, box construction and glazing - - only the absorbers are different. Note that for ease of testing these collectors were built small (2 ft by 3 ft), but for real heating you want to go much larger. A 4ft by 8 ft collector is about the minimum to contribute some real heat, and larger is better - - if you can integrate your collector with an entire south wall like this one, that's great. Page Contents: The test collectors: Pop can collector on left and screen. Collector Basics. There is a lot of not so good information out there on what makes a good solar air heating collector design, so I thought I would include a little info on solar air collector physics, what makes for a good design, and how one can measure and compare collectors accurately. If you are an old hand at this stuff, just skip this section. How do collectors work, and what makes a good design? On just about all solar thermal collectors, the sun shines through the glazing, and hits the collector absorber heating it. The air flows through the inlet and over or inside or through the absorber picking up heat as it goes. This heated air then flows out the collector outlet and into the room being heated. Of this 1. 00. 0 watts/sm, about 1. Of the remaining solar energy, about 9. So, for the 1. 00. Most of this 8. 50 w/sm that made it into the absorber end up going down one of two paths: : one part is picked up by the air flowing through the collector and ends up heating the room, and the other part ends up being lost out the glazing. The job of the collector designer is to maximize the first part and minimize the 2nd part. The heat output the collector can be calculated as: Heat Output = (Temperature Rise)(Airflow)(air density)(specific heat of air)Temperature rise is the increase in air temperature from the inlet to the outlet of the collector - - often around 5. F for well designed collectors. For example, air might enter at 6. F and exit at 1. 20. F. Airflow is the volume of air flowing through the collector expressed in cubic ft per minute (cfm) - - often around 3 cfm/sqft of collector area for well designed collectors. Air density and Specific Heat are physical properties of air that you don't really have any control over - - air density is 0. Specific Heat of air is about 0. BTU per lb per degree F. Its very important to note that the heat output depends on BOTH the Temperature Rise and the Airflow. Many of the videos out there talk only about temperature rise as though that is all that mattered, when it fact its only half the story. It is quite common for a collector to have a very high temperature rise and have a low heat output because the airflow is much to low. There is a tendency to think that things that increase the collector temperature rise will improve the efficiency of the collector, but, in general, the most efficient collectors will have a temperature rise that is just enough to be used for space heating and an airflow that is relatively large. The reason for this goes back to that portion of the heat that the absorber takes in that ends of being lost out the collector glazing. You want to minimize those glazing losses, and an important way to do that is to keep the absorber temperature as low as possible - - the cooler the absorber runs, the less heat will be lost out the glazing. A way to keep the absorber cooler while extracting the same amount of energy from it is more airflow. On solar air heating collectors, it is relatively easy to get most of the suns energy into the collector absorber. The difficult part of air collector design is getting the heat transferred from the absorber into the air. Air is a low density material with a low specific heat, and that makes the heat transfer from absorber to air difficult. The things that tend to help in the transfer of heat from the absorber to the air stream are a high volume of airflow, a lot of absorber area, and good and even airflow of high velocity air over the full surface of the absorber. The good characteristics of the pop can collector from an efficiency point of view are that it has a lot of absorber area (about Pi times what a flat plate would have), and it has a mixed flow of relatively high velocity air through he can columns. The good characteristics of the screen collector are that the thousands of strands of screen wire provide a lot of screen to air heat transfer area, and that the inlet and exit vents are arranged such that the airflow is required to pass through the screen to get from the inlet to the outlet. While there are no hard and fast rules, a temperature rise through the collector of about 5. F works well in that is is warm enough to feel warm coming out of a heater vent. If the room temperature is 6. F, than the collector outlet temperature will be about 1. F. Moving air that is much cooler than this will not feel warm. Going for a temperature rise greater than 6. F usually means a hotter collector absorber and increased heat loss out the glazing. Airflow through the collector of around 3 cfm per sqft of collector area for a collector with a well designed absorber is about right. More airflow would make the collector more efficient, but it also increases noise and fan power, and may lower the temperature rise to the point where the air does not feel warm to people for space heating. The about 3 cfm per sqft of absorbers seems to be a good compromise between efficiency and the other factors. Measuring Performance. Even though solar air heating collectors have been around a long time, it seems there are still significant design improvements that can be made to both performance and cost/labor of construction. This seems like a very interesting and worthwhile area to work on. If you do want to work on an improved air collector design you must have a way to measure performance so you know if the changes you are making actually improve efficiency or not. Its fine to speculate on what might help, but if you don't measure the actual performance carefully, you really don't know if a change helps or hurts performance. Right now, when you look across Youtube etc., it seems like we have a lot of speculation and not a lot of careful measurement going on. Its not that difficult or expensive to do side by side tests of collector designs and to measure the performance. Measuring the absolute performance of a collector is difficult. A collectors performance depends on its design, but is also influenced by solar intensity, ambient temperature, wind and collector orientation - - all things that vary quite a bit from day to day and even minute to minute. One way to get around most of the variations is to test a baseline or reference collector side by side with the collector you are making changes to. If the two collectors are side by side, then they see the same ambient temperature, the same solar intensity and the same wind. If you make a change to your test collector and it performs better relative to the reference collector, than you can be sure the change you made was a good one. With side by side collectors, you need only measure the inlet and outlet temperatures of each collector and the airflow through each collector. Changes that increase the product of the airflow times the temperature rise improve the heat output of the collector - - its as simple as that. The test setup section below shows a more detailed example of a side by side test. If you set up the two collectors so that you can adjust the airflow such that both collectors receive the same airflow, then the collector with the greatest temperature rise is the winner. The details on testing below show one set of insturments that allow accurate testing on a fairly small budget. For other low cost instrumentation ideas.. But, just buying the cheapest instruments on eaby or at the local store and not doing anything to check their calibration is unlikely to give accurate results. Building the Pop Can Collector. I'm just going to cover building the pop can and screen absorbers and not say much about the collector box and glazing, as these are the same for both, and are well covered elsewhere. There are some links at the end that also cover building both types of collectors. The steps in building the pop can absorber - - I've tried to use techniques that don't require much in the way of special tools: 1. If you drink pop or beer, this is not really a problem, but if you don't, you need to find a source of intact cans. You may have friends who will save cans for you. Clean the cans. The cans typically have some residue and need to be cleaned. Most people just use soapy water for this. Be sure to rinse the soap off. Cut the ends out of the cans. This requires more skill and effort than it might seem at first. Various ways have been worked out to do this - - I'll show the way I did it, but the links at the end provide other methods. Cutting out the bottom of the cans: I tried several methods, and ended up using a spade style wood drilling bit. The bit is 1 1/2 inch diameter.
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